Little Yoni and I went on a bit of a road trip to the sagebrush scablands this week. Nothing better than the smell of sage in warm sun!
Initially I thought we were heading for Soap Lake: I needed to soak some scratchy skin and troublesome twisted back muscles in the lovely mineral waters of that
meromictic lake in the desert about 150 miles south and a bit west of the Gulch. I have written about it previously
here
As we neared Sun Lakes State Park, however, Deep Lake called us. Ever obedient to deviation from the plan, the amber golden, liquid sunshine Ford Ranger turned.
Above it all, an enormous enamel tin drum blue sky was scribbled with jet streams. We made a slow sage-smudged way along the little roads through the park, taking time to savour the magnificence of the landscape and the fragrant, blooming marvel of spring in the desert.
X marked the spot as we launched. What ceremonial magnificence! I swear there was even a rainbow sundog shimmering! Some real Bagdad Cafe moments.
The last time I paddled Deep Lake was last summer, with the Blue Bath Tub Toy, in a thunderstorm, written up
here.
Conditions couldn't have been more different this time. The surface was a reflective dance of colour and light, the water a lovely dark aquamarine. That and the graphic goings on in the sky kept my mind off contemplation of the unimaginable scary depths. No surprises in the name here. This lake has an unplumbed deep of the kind which puts a cold clamp of terror on my entrails. Bigtime heebie jeebies if I allow the attention to drop. Definitely a place of profound mystery.
Little Yoni and I are finding our balance. I practiced my J strokes technique with the single blade a bit, then put that aside as being too leisurely, and took up the double bladed Shuna paddle for some fast travelling, hoping to exercise the painful muscles into health as they warmed in the molten honey sun.
On Deep Lake, there are times when one paddles between sheer cliffs which not only rise up up up but also drop down down down below the water. There would be no shore landing possible should a capsize take place. Wet exit: wet re-entry is the only only option.
The cliffs, however are home to hundreds of rock swallow nests, little mud condominiums each with a bird face sticking out. The sunlight on the water was playing magical, dancing light show, reflective tricks at this point. I shot some videos of it but mysteriously when I got home I cannot find the little Canon camera which does video. Fortunately I was shooting mostly stills with the Olympus DSLR.
Other birds of prey circled high above or perched in caves calling attention to themselves with shrieks - osprey maybe - but the distance was too much for clear identification. Crows called counsel across the clear, desert air, their wingspan shadows swooping against cliff, across water.
A little headwind on the return journey had me putting some power into my paddle strokes, and thinking about how almost exactly a year ago I was freshly strong and wild, transformed by the Na Pali paddle. The sheer cliffs here and the colour in the water make the two places cousins.
Little Yoni is welcomed to the deep and the high.
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