My San Juan trip was also a scouting journey. I had heard about this sweet little cedar cabin for sale and had the opportunity to try it on for size.
I loved the spirit of the property and cabin, the integrity in its construction, the proximity to salt water which island living affords and the sun was very good to me during my sojourn - THREE whole days of cloudlessness in the Pacific Northwest! It must have been August.
On the more weightier side of the scale, for me, are the incredibly long ferry waits and the somewhat trendy, touristy nature of the settlements: Friday Harbor had no appeal for me beyond the library, written up
here, and a certain eating house of which more later in this post, while Roche Harbor, pretty to overlook at sunset, exhibits the worst kind of monied we-don't-need-your-kind attitude. All those yachts and terraced housing and the high cost of parking are detractions.
Then too losing my spray skirt and life jacket at San Juan County Park were bad omens. I do not want to live in a tourist spot where people have no respect for anyone behaving like a local. Locals leave their things to dry on logs, trusting that they will be there the next time they want them. Yes, more fool me for trusting but my tent was not many feet away.
The shady, deep in the woods nature of the property also worked against it for me. I do like to grow a bit of food. I have probably become accustomed to the high blue summer skies on the eastern side of the state. This little cabin would be a perfect meditation retreat but would not work for a year round encampment for me.
So I packed my things and hung out in the ferry line for five hours. I was not so lucky this time and was the first vehicle in line for the next ferry. Hate when that happens, but it must have happened to the vehicle behind me on the crossing over. Now it was my turn. What goes around, comes around and all those kind of philosophical platitudes.
Possibly the best thing about Friday Harbour is the
Doctor's Office an excellent establishment which serves just my kind of food: a whole menu of fresh squeezed raw fruit and vegetable juices with lovely names like
Johnny Jump Up (strawberry, banana, orange) and
Hairy Ape (ginger, orange, banana, apple), and magnificent veggie sandwiches - I can heartily recommend the Famous Veggie (as mentioned in the New York Times) or the Baba Ganoush Veggie Wrap. They got all my tourist dollars. A vegan friendly eating house. At last!
I believe they also do espresso and homemade icecream. Situated in a Victorian building, conveniently facing onto the ferry parking lot, with wifi and a magnificent porch overlooking the harbour and the ferry dock, it is not a bad way to spend a long wait. Sitting at that table, it is possible to see one's ship come in. In a manner of speaking.
I realized during those five hours spent watching the light change, that a lot of the atmosphere of Friday Harbor is because it is host to people waiting long hours for a ferry boat. They drift aimlessly. Desultory and disappointed, passing the time idly.
It doesn't help that this was a return journey. Always the hardest one for me: the long road back. Return is possibly one of my worst words in my lexicon.